Lab Pedal Power
Lab Pedal Power
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 Pedal Train Jr With Voodoo Lab Pedal Power 2 Plus  US $162.50
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 NEW PEDALTRAIN PT PRO SOFT w FREE TRIPLE PEDAL BOOSTER US $149.95
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 NEW PEDALTRAIN PT 2 SC w VOODOO LAB PEDAL POWER II US $274.55
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 New Pedaltrain PT JRSC Pedalboard w Bag Free Shipping US $99.95
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 Pedaltrain PT 3 SC with Soft Case 24 Pedalboard w Bag US $139.95
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 New Pedaltrain PT JRSC w Voodoo Lab Pedal Power II US $269.00
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 PEDALTRAIN PRO PT PRO HC Hard Case PedalBoard Voodoo US $299.95
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 PEDALTRAIN 2 PT 2 SC Soft Case PedalBoard Voodoo Mount US $119.95
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 PEDALTRAIN 2 PT 2 HC Hard Case PedalBoard Voodoo Mount US $189.95
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 NEW Pedaltrain PT PRO HC Hard Case Free Shipping w Gift US $299.95
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 NEW Pedaltrain Mini with Soft Case Free Shipping w Gift US $69.95
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 Pedaltrain PT2 SC FX Pedalboard With Softshell Gig Case US $129.99
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 NEW PEDALTRAIN JR Compact Pedalboard With Soft Case PT JR SC US $99.95
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 Pedaltrain PT JR Pedalboard with ATA Flightcase US $169.99
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 Leprechaun 12 1 2 x 24 Pedal Board with Pedal Locks US $100.75
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Best Racing Brake Fluid
The most important link of a racing brake system is the brake fluid. Sometimes this gets overlooked because the choice of the brake fluid may be political or based upon price being the brake fluid a consumable. Here the key factors to look at to make the best choice:
1. Compressibility: This is crucial in order to take full advantage of the stiffness of the calipers. If the fluid loses compressiblity the driver will feel spongy pedal and the modulation of the braking power gets worse. It is important to look at the curve of Compressibility vs. Temperature - supplied by the fluid maker - to see the correlation of the stiffness and the caliper temperature. The consistency of the brakes performance at high temperature is what's desirable to accomplish. The flatter that curve the better.
2. Dry Boiling Point: This is the temperaure which the fluid boils at when it is unopened. Nowadays this values range around 600F which is pretty remarkable however if the caliper temperature goes up in the 500F range, problems to the seals might occur, as well as the aluminum loses strenght.
3. Wet Boiling Point: This is a DOT procedure. The DOT4 specification mandates the wet point must be over 392F. This is mainly applied to brake fluid for OE passenger cars however there are independent labs that can perform this test on Racing brake fluids.
4. Compatibility: One of the most important tests that the brake makers carry out to validate a brake fluid is the compatibility to the rubber components such as seals, dust boots, master cylinders parts and pieces, etc.. The test runs hundreds thousands cycles which simulate the life of the brake components, it involves many procedures to make sure all the components meet the specification at the end of the test.
Another important characteristic of a brake fluid is the hygroscopicity which is the measured as the % of water the fluid absorbs when exposed to moisture. This is crucial expecially for Stock Cars where the teams change calipers and master cylinders in the garage to test several brakes combinations. The more water is absorbed the more it loweres the brake fluid boiling points. This can be tested in a lab as well.
Last but not least is the chemical composition of the brake fluid that might include toxic substances that are may not legal by the local government so the fluid itself can be banned. Most fluid chemical compositions are patented.
We have reported great feedback by users from all types of Racing applications for the new Brembo HTC64 brake fluid. It is the least compressible out there and with over 630F it's got the highest dry boiling point. The links here below for C&R Racing and Hoerr, that's where this fluid can be purchased.
http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?tpc=Brake_Fluid&form_cat_id=92,49,363&action=category
About the Author
Riccardo DiSilvestro is Engineering Manager in Charlotte, NC for Brembo Racing USA
Order of effects pedals on my pedalboard?
I recently built a pedalboard, and I've planned out what pedals I'm going to buy and what I have room for. However, I need to know the order I should chain them in. PLEASE READ MY SETUP FIRST: the whole reason I've resorted to this site is because Googling for hours hasn't provided me with information that's useful to my rig (mainly because of the fact that no two "guides" are the same). So here's are the pedals:
Dunlop Crybaby
DigiTech Whammy
Ibanez Flanger
BOSS DD-20 Digital Delay
Voodoo Lab MicroVibe
MXR EVH Phaser
BOSS Tremolo
Fulltone '70 Fuzz
I also have another problem: powering my pedals. Right now, I'm using a 1-Spot Adapter and a daisy chain with 5 plugs so I can power the 4 pedals I have, but in the future I'll need something more powerful (mainly because of the 18v DD-20). So, should I put a power strip in my pedalboard and stick with adapters, or should I go for something more powerful and compact like a Dunlop DC Brick? Any help is appreciated.
Keith's suggestion of going from clean to distorted is exactly wrong.
The fact he doesn't know Whammy from Crybaby is a clue.
If you did that you'd be taking your flange and DISTORTING it which is far from the effect your looking for. Or then again, maybe it is. That's the fun of it all. You have to find the sound that inspires YOU. That being said...Here's my suggested order.
Anything that causes a time-delay should be last as they can sound very strange anywhere else (like distorting a reverb). Any distortion effect should be FIRST so the other effects are running on your initial tone.
so...
1.Fulltone Fuzz
2.Whammy
3.Crybaby
4-6. Microvibe/Phaser/Tremelo (you'll have to play with those)
7. Flanger
8. Delay
Summer NAMM '11 - Voodoo Lab Pedal Power Digital Demo